Shells, Bridges, and Stories
If you have been to Tairua, you may have noticed branding on the shops and facilities with ‘Two Tides’, which is the English translation of Tairua.
The first settlers, Polynesian ancestors of Māori, were elated by its sheltered harbour; it was one of the first places in New Zealand to be colonised. The European early settlers were attracted to Tairua because of its prospects of kauri felling and gold.
By the 1960s, it was a holiday destination. And because of the beautiful beaches and the harbour, Tairua lent itself to water sports.
My grandparents bought a bach in Tairua in the 1970s; as a small child, I remember the cinema. Apparently it was on the same site as the current hardware store. The first film I ever watched was when I was five years old: Annie. My little brother was three and he slept right through it. But I was awake the whole time, lapping up the experience – not only being in a movie theatre but this amazing story about girls my age and the transition of an orphan to a millionaire. The old cinema was called the ‘Plaza’, built in the early 60s – only open in summer, for approximately 20 years.
Tairua is famous in archaeological terms; its land has been excavated since 1958. A Polynesian fish-lure found here in 1964 is believed to be the oldest artefact in New Zealand. This now takes pride of place in Auckland Museum.
I have only known ‘The Old Mill’ as a restaurant but it seems like it goes back in time! The shell lime mill was originally in Miranda; it was brought here by Harold Cory-Wright. Apparently it was abandoned and then was later turned into a youth hostel.
If you like sports and you live in the Coromandel, you are probably familiar with Cory Park Domain, which was established in 1954. It was a generous gift from the Cory-Wright family, who subdivided their farmland to make this possible. There are a multitude of sports played there: rugby, tennis, netball, touch in summer, yoga, pilates for men and women and of course, skateboarding! The Rugby Club is also available for refreshments Friday and Saturday nights with a big screen TV to watch the games.
Pepe Bridge was built back in 1911; it took six men and six weeks to complete. In 1926, it was widened and in 1943, a concrete bridge was created which still stands there. It is a popular summer spot where adults and children alike use the bridge as a diving board, only at high tide!
There are many historical walks you can partake in Tairua and you can pick up a pamphlet from the Tairua Information Centre for more details. This one I made up myself:
I call it ‘For the love of Tairua’. You grab the love of your life or your significant other and you start the walk at the north end of Tairua beach. You watch the waves and take in the atmosphere. You take your shoes off and walk down onto the beach and paddle in the water. If the waves are big be careful, unless your partner is a surfer! You continue walking down the beach collecting shells; you might want to pick up one of those ring-shaped shells and give it to your significant other. Once you reach the end of Ocean Beach, exit the last walkway onto Paku Road, turn left into Hornsea Rd, then carry on through to Manaia Road.
While you are walking over the bridge, stop for a look at the water and let your eyes wander up to beautiful Mt Paku. Carry on to the end of Manaia Road bypassing the Skate Park. When you get to the end of the road you will hit Tairua township. I suggest an ice cream from the Organic Shop – if you are at the end of Manaia Road, turn right onto SH25 as if you are going to Whitianga.
Keep walking north out of Tairua, pass over the bridge and take the first road on the right and you will be on the northern end of Ocean Beach Road. And just when you think it’s over, it’s not! Walk down Ocean Beach Road and you will pass the old Pottery Shop and eventually find a very large boulder. Neptunes, take your mermaids on to the top of the rock and kiss! Choose your own time limit here. Continue back towards the beach. If you have planned ahead, you will have packed a picnic basket.
My boyfriend when I was 11 took me on this walk. You love places because of the people sometimes. I still look up at his bach and remember the good old times!
Words by Jeanine Stanley
Photos by Whites Aviation (1965)
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