Coromandel’s Collaborative Magazine

From the Hauraki-Coromandel to Bora Bora

How the unique NZ way of life may not be so unique at all!

‘What an absurd statement’ many of you might think. I don’t back down on it. Stepping off a small ATR-72 prop plane in the French Polynesian morning breeze, I, too, was convinced that this was nowhere like ever before, some kind of magical mystery paradise. While the latter is true, stepping off the ferry at Vaitape was just like a busy morning down at the Esplanade, in Whitianga. Small ‘fare’ sold jewellery and handicrafts, fresh vanilla pods and pareo – the colourful sarongs traditionally worn by the people of Tahiti and her islands. Fare is Tahitian for a building or house, similar to whare in te reo Māori or in Raiatea in French Polynesia, also in the Society islands – said to be the origin of our country’s indigenous and traditional owners.

Here in Aotearoa it’s not uncommon to see people’s cats meandering down quiet streets. In Bora-Bora, it’s dogs. They’re not savage dogs; in fact, they are very friendly.

They often just wander around and nap; I, too, would be having many naps if I lived in an island paradise with no worries or cares. They’re well looked after. Cafes on the island sell much of the same grub found back home too: lattes, smoothies, iced coffees, burgers and chips, beautiful salads. Except here it’s much more expensive. I guess that’s the price you pay for living out here, beautiful and untouched.

The Saturday morning bakery runs like those we have in Aotearoa, they sure have that over there! A forty minute walk from our guesthouse in Faanui, the next commune up from Vaitape, leads us to Super-U. Consider it like a dairy on steroids; they sell homewares, tools, Lotto tickets, food and the best part – a whole crate filled with freshly baked baguettes. They’re about XPF 60, ~NZD 0.90 and they’re heavenly, crispy and fluffy. The locals also have quite a big sweet tooth, as traditional French desserts like mousse au chocolat, and crème brûlée make regular appearances on restaurant menus. Bush walks – the influence that American tourism has on the islands has locals refer to it as ‘hiking’ – are also a common pastime (the mountain, Mount Otemanu towers over the island); so is fishing, you will regularly find nets lining the beaches. So, not too much of an absurd statement, now!

words by Joshua Page

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