Kia ora. My name is Connor de Gier. Welcome to my series for Coromind magazine on my favourite Coromandel tracks!
As you cross the ferry from Whitianga to the Cooks Beach side, a must-do track awaits you.
This track is the start of two tracks: the Whitianga Rock and Pā Site track and the Maramaratotara Track (a loop).
Whitianga Rock is unique due to the old pā site; Māori pā were fortified villages or hill forts with walls and defensive terraces. The intimidating pā once stood on a narrow rocky headland extending into Whitianga Harbour. It was a well-defended stronghold; Ngati Hei had used the natural defences of rock bluffs and water on three sides, complemented by ditches, earth banks, and scarps on the landward side. However, it was raided by a war party from Ngai te Rangi in the mid-18th century and left burnt and abandoned. Even so, when Captain James Cook visited Whitianga Rock in November 1769, he was truly impressed by the pā, noticing its strong defences and strategic position.*
As you jump off the ferry, walk up the road until you see the public toilets; from their right, follow the footpath and you will see the starting point of the track, indicated by signs. This track is said to be ‘easy’ and will take ten minutes, based on average times.
The track is well-maintained, and it is easy to see where you are heading. The walk climbs up to Whitianga Rock, revealing stunning views of Mercury Bay, the estuary, and the town of Whitianga. You can also see a little bay on the other side called Back Bay, with stunning blue waters, and a good view.
After looking around at Whitianga Rock and the pā site, you can do the Ferry Landing to Maramaratotara Track.
Coming down from the Whitianga Rock you will see the signs showing you the directions of the track – left if you are coming down from the Whitianga Rock, and right if you are coming up from the ferry. The Ferry Landing to Maramaratotara Track is well maintained. This track is classified as ‘moderate’ difficulty and could take you up to 90 minutes to complete.
The track leads to a stunning lookout at the top, where you can see another beautiful perspective of Mercury Bay and Whitianga’s estuary. The walk is suitable for everyone and is well worth it if you love nature; however, it’s recommended you wear a good pair of closed shoes. As you leave the viewpoint at the top, it’s a very easy walk down with another two viewpoints and seats to take a break.
On this part of the walk, you will find yourself looking over the bays out to Centre Island. The best time to go on this walk would be on a sunny summer day, as the blue of the water and sky is stunning!
Once you reach the bottom, you are on Purangi Road. To complete the loop, go left, where the road will lead you back to the ferry. Or go right and follow the road to the famous Eggsentric Cafe! If you don’t wish to follow either of these options, take the path down to Maramaratotara Bay, also known as Front Beach, a lovely place to swim and relax.
My experience doing these tracks was amazing. I had gone with my friends on a hot summer day. We thought the track was quite easy for our age and level of fitness. When setting off, it felt like the track would take a while, but before we knew it, we had made it to the lookout at the top!
As we went down, our jaws dropped as we stared out at Centre Island. It was a good angle to view beautiful Mercury Bay; I hadn’t realised how good ‘The Bay’ looks. I think looking at the ocean from that perspective made the walk worth it!
Tips:
- Bring plenty of water.
- Wear a hat and sunblock.
- Have some good shoes that are comfortable and suitable for uneven terrain.
- Visit the Eggsentric Cafe!
Notes:
Distance:
Ferry Landing to Maramaratotara Track (loop): 1.8 kms
Whitianga Rock: 400 m
Grade:
Track: Whitianga Rock: easy
Track: Ferry landing to Maramaratotara Track: easy to moderate
Access:
Cooks Beach side, Ferry Landing
Words by Connor de Gier
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