Despite being a photographer, I decided not to be encumbered so I simplified my gear, taking only my iPhone and a GoPro.
A chance encounter with a couple of cyclists at a Kaiaua cafe set in motion a plan to ride the length of the country. The idea took on a sense of romance and I was hooked.
It is a long ride, over 3000 km across two land masses on tracks, trails, roads, both busy and quiet, and wilderness areas.
I questioned myself – besides the romance and physical challenge of it, why this journey and why now?
I have ridden bikes for most of my life, including multi-day road rides with a support vehicle. The idea of cycling with all my gear, ‘bikepacking’, was both exciting and intimidating.
More than the challenge, I was inspired to see a country I felt I knew but to view it from a different perspective. Familiar places from a new angle and places never seen before. A voyage of discovery, to be open to new things, be surprised and to pause and reflect.
Options to travel have been limited in the last few years, with lockdowns and storms, so flexibility and timing would be key to the experience. As a result I split the trip in two. The North Island in November 2022 and the South Island in February this year.
Through months of web searches, shop visits and conversations I found the gear that wouldn’t let me down, stranded in the middle of nowhere. In the North Island, a survival bag for emergencies would suffice; in the South Island, the more remote route demanded a tent as well as a GPS tracker. Waterproof bags were a must, a waterproof outer layer too. Water purification tablets were essential, as drinking straight from streams is not recommended. Bungee cords are invaluable, as is getting your bike saddle properly fitted – a lesson I learned the hard way.
Despite being a photographer, I decided not to be encumbered so I simplified my gear, taking only my iPhone and a GoPro.
And advice? Besides the physical preparation and having the right gear, it’s important to be mentally prepared. Know how to push yourself but not too far, as you need to get up and do it over the next day.
The overall journey can be overwhelming, so sometimes you need to focus on the next step. The next town, the next hill and, when progress seems to elude you, the next pedal stroke. Take joy from small steps.
Now at home, I carry a strong perception of New Zealand as a country in transition and contrast.
Areas of pristine forest where trees predate the arrival of man. Landscapes modified for farming and development. Maori communities, artefacts and art displaying a vibrant identity. Pakeha communities with relics of the old farming and extractive industries. Railway tracks and coach trails abandoned as transport systems changed, now repurposed through ecotourism. Modern communities with new architecture, industries, subdivisions and shops. Christchurch, ravaged by earthquakes, rebuilding and establishing itself.
The great forests of Waipoua and Pureora. Expansive harbours of the Hokianga and the Kaipara, the mighty Whanganui River. The broad South Island plains and basins and their endless skies, nestled between craggy snow-topped mountains split by braided rivers, canals and lakes.
The isolated beauty of remote passes and rough broken roads.
Art visible throughout the entire country. Collectives, exhibitions, galleries, sculptures and murals all reflecting a deep connection to a country and how it chooses to express itself.
The many people who surprised me with their stories and their kindness. The woman at Kohukohu who fed me rather than have me cycle down and back up a steep hill at the end of the day. The world champion shearer on the station near McKenzie basin who still used traditional blades to work. The 80-year-old English traveller still cycling the world, who was in the SAS looking for Russian spies in English pubs after the 1989 fall of the Berlin Wall – who drank a lot of beer and found no spies.
Old friends I visited in Christchurch, Cromwell and Dunedin – I’m grateful I defined my journey to include catching up with them, which was part of the adventure.
And the weather? Lots of it and all the time. Sun, wind, rain, hail, heat and cold. Which tested me and my gear over and over again.
Ian is currently working on a book of images and thoughts from his adventure through Aotearoa.
Ian will also be exhibiting a collection of his astrophotography at Christine Rabarts CR Exhibit Space, 24 Wharf Road, Coromandel Town from Saturday 27th May to Sunday 11th June, 10am to 4pm every day.
